Once a province of Castilla y León
and as such that region’s only exit to the sea,
Cantabria is today its own region, although its people
still retain something of the austere Castilian character.
As the Spanish Nobel Prize winner Camilo José Cela
wrote, “If Cantabria, green and civilized Cantabria,
has too much of anything, it has too many possibilities.”
Indeed, although Cantabria is Spain’s smallest region,
the sights and contrasts it affords are quite remarkable,
from its magnificent coastline, splendid beaches and small
Old World ports along the Bay of Biscay, to its four major
mountain ranges, its world famous prehistoric caves, its
gentle, lushly green valleys, and its lovely seaside capital
of Santander.Here are the Picos de Europa, among Spain’s
highest peaks, rising abruptly from the sea, and dotted
with quaint mountain villages, churches dating back to
the eighth century, awesome gorges and broad green valleys.
Remarkable are the Caves of Altamira, sometimes called
the Sistine Chapel of prehistoric art because of their
wondrous ceiling paintings that date back some 15,000
to 20,000 years. The nearby historic-artistic gem, Santillana
del Mar, wrought in stone and declared a National Monument,
has survived in all its medieval glory and is another
focal point of travel in Cantabria.
Cantabria’s capital, Santander,
has also retained its charm. Calm, genteel, cultivated
– an international university town – Santander
stands high on a hill overlooking its magnificent bay.
The coastal town of Comillas, also known for its university,
is a centuries-old seignorial town of palaces and noble
homes and an elegant summer resort as well. Luxuriantly
green Cantabria provides ideal grazing land for cattle
and is known for its fine milk products, primarily its
butter and fresh cheeses. Cuisine along the coast centers
on seafood – especially exceptional sardines and
anchovies – and in the interior on meat, most notably
the region’s hearty meat and chickpea stew, cocido
montañés, and milk and cheese-based desserts.
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